Pipe Repair & Repiping in Arlington, VA

Is Your Home's Pipe Material a Risk?

Galvanized Steel

Standard in construction well into the mid-20th century, galvanized pipe's protective zinc coating gradually wears away from the inside, exposing bare steel to corrosion — the pipe effectively rusts closed from within over decades. Discolored water, reduced pressure throughout the house, and visible corrosion at exposed fittings are the usual signs.

Polybutylene

Used roughly 1978–1995 for its low cost and easy installation, polybutylene reacts poorly with chlorine in municipal water over decades, becoming brittle and prone to sudden, often hidden failure. It's typically gray, blue, or black plastic tubing, sometimes stamped 'PB2110,' commonly found at the water meter, water heater connections, and behind fixture shutoff valves. Because failures can be sudden rather than gradual, many insurers now flag it proactively.

Lead Service Lines

Found in some pre-1950s Arlington properties, lead can leach into drinking water, particularly when water sits in the line overnight. A lead line is typically dull gray, easily scratched with a key to reveal shiny metal underneath, and non-magnetic (unlike galvanized steel). There's no safe level of lead exposure according to public health guidance, which makes identification and replacement worth prioritizing.

PEX vs. Copper: Choosing Your Replacement Material

Both are solid, code-approved choices — the right one depends on your project and priorities.

PEX

Generally less expensive in both material and labor since it's flexible and needs fewer fittings, making it faster to install through existing walls without extensive demolition. It also resists freeze-related bursting better than rigid pipe, thanks to its flexibility.

Copper

A longer proven track record, and better resistance to UV and rodent damage than plastic tubing. Still a strong choice for new construction or specific applications where rigidity and a long installation history matter most.

Hybrid Approach

Many repipe projects use PEX through walls and tight spaces with copper stub-outs at fixtures — the two materials connect cleanly with the correct transition fittings, and this combination often gives the best balance of cost and durability.

What a Whole-House Repipe Actually Involves

1. Mapping and Planning

We map the existing system and plan access points — targeted openings in walls or ceilings, not opening every wall in the house.

2. Running New Pipe

New piping is run through the planned access points while old piping is capped or removed and fixtures are reconnected. Most residential repipes are completed within a few days depending on home size, not weeks.

3. Water Availability

Water is typically only fully off for portions of each day rather than the entire project — most homeowners stay in the house throughout.

4. Patching and Permitting

We pull the required Arlington County permit as part of the project, and either handle basic drywall patching or coordinate with a trusted contractor so you're not left managing that piece separately.

Partial Repipe vs. Whole-Home: What Makes Sense

A partial repipe addressing one failing section can be a reasonable interim step, particularly if budget is tight and only one area is showing problems. But if the rest of the system is the same age and material, it's often just delaying the inevitable — most homes on original galvanized or polybutylene piping installed around the same era fail at a similar rate across the whole system, not just in the one spot that happened to leak first. We'll give you an honest read on which situation you're in rather than defaulting to the bigger, more expensive recommendation.

Frequently Asked Questions